ARTICLES -preliminary

During my phd research I have been writing some articles. Always focusing the main theme of my research: Capulana fabric. Unfortunately, my english is not my top language , but I tried my best . This articles are preliminary  articles and un-finished drafts that were presented at the conferences.

Hope you enjoy the readings;)

1) Second hand clothing. A baling from past that highlights the cutting edge of the new fashion both in Europe and Africa

The movement of second-hand clothing (SHC) is gaining more and more visibility. Starting from an historical overview of trade, this article aims to examine various contexts in which it has developed, both in Europe (Lisbon) and in Africa (Maputo). Regarding clothing influence, the paper focuses in Western SHC’s to sharpen an understanding of Africa challenge, from 1980’s to nowadays,

By stressing both cultural expressions Vintage vs. Chi-calamity as articulators of the “new” garment made by participative stories, dreams and meanings of personal neo-mod narratives, this article seeks to unveil the interweaving fashion-able map of the cosmopolitan cultural landscape both in Lisbon and Maputo. 

* presented at Fashion Tales,13th International Conference of Moda Cult-Center for the Study of Fashion and of Cultural Production of the Università Cattolica of Milan .

2)African tailors empowerment: an approach on co-learning

This paper aims to present and discuss an ongoing study focused on a co-learning approach, based on pattern cutting, developed by the author, at the Fashion Institute Modatex. The subject is based on knowledge and skill development while answering several needs of a selected group of African immigrant tailors in Lisbon. By creating a first co-learning platform it became possible to enable cognitive awareness through cross-knowledge sharing and to discuss academic and apprenticeship learning systems.  

The methodological approach favors a qualitative study with an emphasis on the observation of the process where culture works as mediation for space and dialogue. On another level of this study, participatory action research methodology is applied to better answer community problems, building collaborative learning and acquires higher cognitive and practical results.

This practical application should result into knowledge empowerment and better integration of the tailors’ abilities, as well as a sustainable tangible manifestation of an intangible cultural heritage. 

* Apresentação em PPT 

U- Design’12 . 1º encontro nacional de Design. Universidade de Aveiro. 14 julho de 2012

3)Tailoring cloth, tailoring alternative modernity’s on the 21th century: a co-education program designed with the African tailors in Lisbon

Paper Short Abstract:
African tailors are one the main agents in the creation of local/regional fashion. This article discusses a case study with African tailors in Lisbon. In a one-year Lab/workshop, culture, creativity and sustainable development meet cross-knowledge sharing on tailoring.

Paper Long Abstract:
Working with cosmopolitan vision, African tailors are readers and narrators of a dialectic relationship between Africa’s tradition and contemporaneity. Aesthetics par excellence, these artisans, using mainly West African clothing, baste ‘new’ cloth to dress the ‘new’ Africa(s). As this research identified, the endogenous knowledge these tailors hold is not recognized as a cultural (re)generator.
This project is part of a PHD research aiming both to apply, at an academic level, identity, tradition and fashion-able challenges of African capulana fabric into the 21th century fashion and, in parallel, to contribute, in a applied form, towards social justice through sustainable fashion design, this latter seen as a vehicle for knowledge empowerment, to improve better livelihood and self-representation.
Specifically, this article proposes the first co-learning platform for African tailors, where culture works as mediation for space and dialogue. Idealized by the author and fashion designer Sofia Vilarinho and supported by the Fashion Institute Modatex, the model has been developed in Lisbon, with the aim to apply it locally, in various African contexts.  This program may contribute to develop a model of working facing an alternative approach to the 21th fashion/clothing system and exchange deeper values that work cognitive levels, identity, and cultural narratives together with economic sustainability.

* Presentation PPT 

* ECAS 2013 “The fifth European Conference on African Studies “

4)A Cross-­cultural rectangle of Textile: An Educational Approach To Sustainable Fashion  Design

Departing from the reflection about fashionable Africanisms, this paper aims to present and discuss an on-­‐ going study focused on a cross-­‐cultural co-­‐learning immersion program in sustainable fashion design, currently being developed with first year fashion students of the Lisbon Faculty of Architecture, and based upon the conceptual developments done by the author about the Mozambican capulana. This study proposes a fashion-­‐able approach program that focuses on a deeper dialogue between students and immigrant communities in Lisbon. It is also intended to boost fashion-­‐able practices by exploring the rectangular shape of a fabric, which is at the base of African and Indian outfits.

In this process a rectangular fabric left uncut is the starting point of a groovy conceptual, and fashion-­‐able approach that merges fabric, form and body. This praxis will help students explore notions of tradition and contemporaneity, while in parallel working on identity processes through fashion. At the same time, these moments allow to free students from the ‘conventions’ on western clothing and to explore individual creativity while reformulating body boundaries. Indeed, the proposed horizontal dialogues and the intercultural approach in dealing with different cultural groups may help students to experience another view on European ways of fashion. 

* Este artigo não foi apresentado no Cimode, 4th-7th November, University of Minho, Portugal pois o processo de investigação que estava a decorrer com os alunos da FAUTL, foi interrompido por um outro docente da Faculdade que dificultou o projecto, obrigando o investigador a desistir. A insuficiencia nos resultados e a desilusão deste processo levou o investigador a desmotivar-se na apresentação do projecto.

 5) Capulana from Mozambique, the golden rectangle for sustainable fashion Design 

This article is part of a PhD project, which studies a socio-cultural approach on identity, tradition and fashion-able challenges of the African capulana fabric into the 21st century fashion styles. We aim to ask for another western perspective on an African fabric that goes beyond the exotic or ethnic classification, highlighting three main characteristics of this fabric (defined by the author as capulana concepts), which are an important axis on sustainable fashion design principles: co-design, affectivity and slow-fashion.

Regarding the research methods applied in our study, mainly qualitative research has been conducted. The data collection comprises historical research (web and traditional research tools), interviews, fabric analysis, observational studies including photography and video recording in Mozambique. On another level of discussion we propose a multi-method approach of a co-creation program with the local African community that is partly anthropological in nature and at the same time asks for a ‘co- designing future’.

The findings will give an important input for knowledge acquisition about African fabrics, and specifically about capulana from Mozambique. Hitherto there is a lack of information about this fabric and what is known is mainly based on historical studies and not on design studies.  Moreover, the findings intend to address cross-cultural dialogues, significantly useful to apply on an educational level among fashion schools who are interested in the enrollment of fashion students with local African communities and in hands-on sustainable design.

*  abstract send and accepted at Madrid at Global Fashion Conference, 15,16,17th November, 2012. 

6) Mozambique’s capulana: an et(n)hical approach for Sustainable Fashion Design

Departing from the proposed capulana’ cultural concepts, this paper aims i) to open up a debate about the conceptual potentiality of the capulana, and ii) to propose a more sustainable use of this African fabric. A deeper reading of this African textile is seen as the framework and tool to a hands-­‐on process on sustainable fashion design. The interwoven capulana’s cultural concepts-­‐ defined by the author as co-­‐design, affectivity and slow-­‐fashion-­‐ will argue how this approach is linked to the main axis on sustainable fashion design principles, as suggested by authors as Fletcher (2008) and Fuad-­‐Luke (2009). Here a “hands-­‐ on culture” clothing program is developed with two different groups of African immigrant community. With this process we achieve new identity discourses and cultural awareness that will improve wellbeing and livelihood for the community. Heritage knowledge is here an agent for negotiation of social empowerment and change, facing sustainable fashion design practices. 

*Presentation PPT

* presented: Designa 2012 . Covilhã Portugal

 

PUBLICAÇÃO DE ARTIGOS CIENTÍFICOS 

(estado: em review)

Int’l International Journal of Fashion Studies: “Second-hand clothing. The cutting edge of the new fashion in Lisbon and Maputo”

and

IJURR: International Journal of Urban and regional research : ” Tailoring modernity’s in the 21th century: a co-learning program designed with the African tailors in Lisbon”

 

 

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