No decorrer do ano de 2010, para além de ter apresentado a proposta de Doutoramento na FAUTL (19 de Fevereiro de 2010), também efetuei a 17 de Junho de 2010 a candidatura a uma Bolsa de Doutoramento, a ser financiada pela Fundação para a Ciência e a Tecnologia . A 09 de Junho de 2010 fui informada da sua atribuição e a bolsa foi efetivamente concedida a partir do mês de Janeiro de 2011.

Após a apresentação da proposta de Doutoramento na FAUTL, a respectiva apreciação do júri e o período de candidatura à FCT, dá-se a reformulação do projeto de investigação para apresentação no seminário de Investigação – primeiro ponto de situação. Algumas alterações à proposta inicialmente submetida à FATUL, relacionaram-se  agora com o título da tese, a calendarização da investigação, e com o conteúdo da mesma.

O presente relatório,  tem por objectivo descrever e justificar, com clareza e rigor, o trabalho desenvolvido ao longo de 6 meses, no período compreendido entre Fevereiro de 2010 e Dezembro de 2011.

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a apresentação deste relatório encontra-se neste link .


This interdisciplinary research is addressing fashion for development (F4D) based upon Mozambican capulana. The aim to introduce new epistemic and methodological approaches that will contribute to a deeper reading and understanding of this Mozambican fabric. The capulana, a rectangle of colourfully printed cotton fabric is mainly used by women, but also by men. Part of the social dimension of the capulana is that it is a form of non-verbal communication which might be readable or non-readable to the Other. In this way and also culturally this fabric can be a powerful instrument of communication on social, political, religious and sexual themes. This fabric is the reflection of several centuries of an intense commerce of fashions and textiles across the Indian Ocean – that registered the history since the second half of the 19th century, and nowadays is considered the symbol of Mozambiqueness

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A apresentação deste relatório encontra-se neste  link



This research project has a two-fold aim: on the one hand it intends to apply, at an academic level, identity, tradition and “fashion-able” challenges of the African capulana fabric to the 21th century fashion. On the other hand, it seeks to contribute, in a tangible form, towards social justice through sustainable fashion design. The latter is seen as a vehicle for knowledge empowerment, to improve livelihood and self-representation.

In the pages that follow this report seeks to describe and explain with clarity and rigor, the work done over these 12 months. To this effect I build a structure of the document that I present below:

1) Restructuring PhD Proposal: some decisions

2) Activities under the provisional schedule

2.1. Current Status of the research

2.2. Interviews

2.3 Deep analysis of research steps

2.4.Research through oriented readings

4) Future work

5) Conclusions

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The year 2013, was for me an emotionally intensive year due familiar problems concerning the death of my grandfather and the strong illness of my brother during 7 months in the Hospital. Nevertheless I tried to stay focused on my work and make research progresses according the provisional timetable I’ve planed on the last report.

As I’m in the final stretch of my project, it’s important to clarify proposes of this research. The following abstract is elucidative about the aims of this research:

This interdisciplinary research is addressing D4S (Design for sustainability) and intends to innovate a design regarding about capulanas from Mozambique where the cultural concepts of the fabric (defined by the author as affectivity, co-design and slow-fashion) are the frame for sustainable design practices with the ‘peripheral’ communities (African immigrants in Lisbon). Three main areas complete this research project:  the history of capulana, the cultural context and fashion-able results with capulana.

In this project design and ethnography becomes territory of research, analysis, experimentation and building cultural knowledge in order to foster identity, cultural vitality, environmental protection and social equity. One of the most publicized achievements in this research is that the project creates an epistemological reflection and new methodological approaches in fashion design field, which will contribute to the creation of a uniform action that can also be applied to other studies and objects. On another hand, the achieved results with the community of practice, highlights how identity and politics are intertwined in cultural and creative processes of ‘place-making’ and ‘self-making’. They also remind how spaces of mediation and dialogue (see point 2.3.1; 2.3.2 and 2.3.3) in which creativity and technical skills – through its institutional-informal continuum – become the key engine of a local participation in a global ecosystem.

In the following pages, I seek to describe and explain with clarity and rigor, the work done over 12 months. For this effect I build a structure of the document that I present below:

  1. Activities under the provisional schedule

2.1  Literature review


2.2.1 Thesis chapters

2.2.2 Articles

2.3 Current Status of the research

2.3.1. Lab 1: The African Tailors

2.3.2. Lab 2: Mozambican Women

2.3.3.Lab 3: Fashion-able | product development

2.3.4 Applied methodologies

  1. Public presentations of the research
  2. Future Work
  3. Conclusion

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